Wednesday, November 7, 2007


926 12th Ave Seattle, WA 98122
tel: (206) 323-5275

Hours Tuesday through Sunday 5:00pm to 10:30pm
Lark on Urbanspoon

The sassy critics met at Lark on at around 7:45 on Tuesday, Election Day, November 6th. We sat among 40 somethings, most of whom seemed carelessly wiling away a Tuesday evening drinking wine and sampling delectables. There were a few ethnically diverse "groups" that reeked of Microsoft, but other than that, a pleasant environment for a couple of ladies in their prime.

Our waiter was cute in that I'm-in-a-band-but-I'm-really-sensitive-and-smart-and-read-a-lot kind of way. He also had sexy teeth and was pleasantly accommodating to all of our (my) incessant questions. There is a lot to learn on the Lark menu and I just gotta ask. Sorry. I got the feeling though that when HE asked me how the duck was, and when I was honest about the beautiful tang of the huckleberries being drowned out by the vinegar, and the meat being dry and not doing it for me, cute waiter turned off a bit and wasn't as attentive anymore. Maybe I annoyed him?

The Muscovy duck salami (not to be confused with the Crispy Liberty Farm duck leg with huckleberries and Walla Walla onions - the one I griped to the waiter about) with Ginja cherry and cinnamon preserve kicked our asses. Rocked our worlds. Last piece of salami had to be cut into two pieces to share. Divine balance of salty and sweet tang. Cinnamon preserve was honey like and a perfect complement to the rich deepness of the duck.

The seared Sonoma foie gras with poached quince and pain d'epice (aka sweet spice bread...) was divine. Pure liver, seared ever so rare,, buttery, flavorful, melt-in-your-mouth amazing. We found that the spice bread overpowered the beauty of the liver and had to be savored separately - alternately between bites of foie gras and the mini quince cubes, to cleanse the palate. Perhaps the spice bread provides those less adventurous souls with something to mask the flavor? Whatever.

The quince tart tatin was by far the highlight of the evening though and had I been hungry enough I could have eaten 3 or 4 servings myself. Our sweet waiter recommended the Tokaji - a Hungarian dessert wine - as a nice accompaniment to the tart. Perfect. He was spot on with all of his recommendations. I regret not taking him up on the pork tenderloin, however. The Tokaji was light and fruity without any syrupy sweetness. Perfect perfect.

Chef John Sundstrom definitely has his shit together, providing the interesting and the truly unusual in a town where people still seem excited by ye old standards: cantaloupe and prosciutto or anything seared. We thoroughly enjoyed Lark.

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